A sense of protection ran through the focused collection that Iceberg creative director James Long conjured for fall.
Looking back at the coed lineup he first meant to present with a show in New York — before plans got canceled due to pandemic precautions — the designer realized the sheltering vibe of his utility pieces and knits was the instinctive result of an unconscious feeling, one heightened by a mainly black-and-white palette.
Yet these elements didn’t dampen the street appeal and bold attitude Long pushes forward at Iceberg, as he continued to fuse London and Milan fashion influences.
While for men, functional down jackets and capes had tech qualities, oversize volumes and camouflage-like patterns, women were protected by sharply tailored coats with glam, Swarovski embellishments.
For a toughening boost, Long offered the same motif also on leather overalls and jackets, which broadcast the brand on sleeves, too.
Chunky knits conveyed a gentler and cocooning vibe and nodded to a nautical theme the designer introduced by reworking peacoats or, more playfully, by displaying Popeye’s image on knit sweaters. It was a touch of humor that lifted the spirit of this functional collection.
