Daniele Calcaterra marked his 10th runway show — and return to the physical format after two years of digital presentations — with a personal and polished collection that displayed his tailoring expertise.
Inspired by solar eclipses, an astronomical phenomenon he feels connected with as “it demands from us to stop and pay attention,” he offered a subtle play between shadow and light, alternating the matte textures of raw wool with duchesse satin pieces and shiny fil coupé details, as well as adding white accents to the mostly dark palette.
Along with his use of fabrics, the designer’s study on lines and volumes stood out through oversize silhouettes that enhanced shoulder proportions on jackets and coats as well as cocooning shapes that channeled a sense of protection.
A more ornamental bent cast a new light on Calcaterra’s sober fashions through floral motifs sprouting here and there and long fringes swishing from sleeves and fluid dresses. A charming way to draw attention to one passing by.
