Brunelli Cucinelli’s collection for fall was infused with a Nordic vibe and patterns, but think downtown Stockholm rather than Kebnekaise mountain.
A cashmere coat was treated to look like fur, with a rustic texture. It was hard to tell that what seemed a fleece jacket was actually also in cashmere — Cucinelli’s core business and well-honed jewel in the crown.
Surfaces glimmered with sequins, whether embroidered on a roomy cardigan or applied to a silk deconstructed jacket over utility pants or a wool tuxedo with silk lapels. A short shearling bomber jacket sported a crest that sparkled with shiny stones.
Cucinelli played with men’s and women’s combinations for a versatile wardrobe, blurring the lines between daywear and event dressing. A floor-length silk skirt was easily paired with a mohair knit.
Intarsia and embroideries peeked as floral patterns, almost camouflaged on delicate knits. He compared the “visual pyramid” of different inspirations and elements to that used to create a fragrance, and he emphasized the lightness of the fabrics and overall effect.
The color palette contributed to this mood, in delicate hues that ranged from silver and pale apricot to cream and light brown, but there was also some tartan that added a British flavor to silk shirts.
The collection responded to different needs, whether wishing to nestle in front of a fire on a rainy day in a cocooning cardigan or to step out for an evening of wining and dining.
