In Pursuit of The Lightness of Air could be a good headline for what Norbert Stumpfl is doing at Brioni, whose fall collection was inspired by Bruegel the Elder’s painting at Rome’s Galleria Doria Pamphilj, The Allegory of Air. “I’ve been mesmerized by this painting for a long time,” said the designer. “I wanted to capture the image of air, which is both intangible and essential, trying to create substance in the absence of weight.”
Stumpfl lives in Rome; the extreme beauty and decadence of the city inspired the set he staged for the collection’s presentation in a rundown Milanese palazzo. Sounds of church bells chiming and water rippling softly from fountains, images of piazzas paved by ancient cobblestones and flocks of birds crossing terse blue skies: the atmosphere was of poetry and romance, framing a collection exquisite in execution and exceptional in the quality of its ingredients.
During his tenure at Brioni, Stumpfl is creating garments whose inconspicuous weight belies a substantial mastering of the meticulous craftsmanship Brioni is known for. “I’m pursuing an ideal of luxury which is very private and personal,” he explained. “No labels, no logos, it’s only for you to know. It’s just making the man look more beautiful, with no artifice. You see a man wearing Brioni in the street and you look at his face and think, ‘Oh, he looks so good!’ I want just his personality to shine.”
There isn’t a hint of rigidity or constriction in the beautifully soft-tailored suits and overcoats fashioned from the best, most luxurious yet almost impalpable fabrics Stumpfl favors: baby alpaca, vicuña, ultrafine cashmeres and high quality wools. Heavenly to the touch, they’re rendered into shapes which are smooth and supple, yet precise in their modern décontracté sophistication. Details are discreet, deceptively unassuming and painstakingly handcrafted: buttonholes are stitched on both sides to make them more elegant; the edges of a jacket in black crocodile, moisturized with aloe to make it soft, are hand painted to achieve the perfect finish.
Picking up on Broni’s tradition of creative eveningwear, Stumpfl proposed a series of special pieces, often made with fabrics borrowed from the feminine repertoire. A black smoking jacket was studded with minuscule patches in hammered silver, sewn symmetrically with imperceptible stitches as if they were floating on its surface. On a more flamboyant note, a classic tuxedo was cut in languid, sensuous emerald silk satin, usually used for ball gowns or feminine evening dresses. Women customers appreciate a dedicated Brioni bespoke offer, which from this season will be expanded further; a capsule of six looks was developed from traditional men’s wardrobe staples and fitted to suit the female form, conveying the same attitude of unassuming luxury and gentle confidence.
