Linear thinking is never an option when it comes to Antonio Marras’ fashion.
The designer became fixated with masculine fabrications — checks, tartans and Prince of Wales — which he applied with gusto and an eclectic touch to his pre-fall women’s lineup.
Back at work on his men’s main collection, he exploited the same patterns by patchworking them together to conjure up a hunting theme with stiff field jackets with multiple pockets, padded overshirts with contrasting panels and cut-and-sew cargo pants, which made one dream of retreating to the shores of some Sardinian lake (lookbook images were shot along Lake Calich, on Marras’ native island).
His hunters turned into ‘90s grunge kids in the woods, covered in oversize mélange knitwear and tartan kilts bearing upholstery textile patches with brightly colored floral patterns, all reminiscent of Kurt Cobain’s style. Flannel shirts were made up of myriad panels, each combination coming out as a one-of-a-kind piece. Marras confessed to not being an avid sewer but during lockdown he came up with a patchwork sweater in sage green with tile-size scraps of collection textiles on the front.
Marras’ patchworks and clashes of upcycled fabrics have become somewhat of a signature, proving that sustainability has always been embedded in his designs. This harks back to years ago, as the designer explained: “When my uncle died my brothers got to inherit his real estate, I got his wardrobe.”
Uncle Marras was farsighted.