Huishan Zhang looks to cinema to influence his designs. In the case of this resort collection, the designer drew inspiration from Eileen Chang’s Red Rose, White Rose, a 1944 novella by one of the most prominent authors in modern Chinese literature. “I love starting a collection by referencing something romantic, and I think this particular story shares a beautiful way of depicting two different sides of a woman,” Zhang said in a preview. “The red represents fiery passion, whereas the white embodies a classic elegance. However, for me, it’s equally important to celebrate the entire spectrum that exists in between.”
Rose-themed details can be found throughout the collection, from ornamental corsages on Lurex tweed jackets and V-neck shift dresses with soft velvet chain trimmings to an embroidered lace decorated with floral patterns that are then cut into trench coats and panniered midi-dresses. For even more ethereal impact, Zhang crafted mini-dresses shaped like roses using moiré. These delicate pieces featured wiring along its edges, allowing the wearer to mold the flower into their desired silhouette.
Instead of the ostrich feathers he’s used in the past, Zhang experimented with other materials that maintain the brand’s ultrafeminine aesthetic, including tulle, sequins, and embroidered wrinkled satin. “Historically, people have been coming to us for our feathered pieces, so we wanted to push the boundaries of what else we could offer,” he said.
Although the Huishan Zhang brand is known for glamorous evening wear, the designer remains determined to advance his daywear offerings. Through the incorporation of embellished denim, delicate cotton lace, and cashmere knitwear, Zhang demonstrated his ability to align everyday pieces with his luxurious language.
