David Koma’s love affair with the ancient Greek goddesses Aphrodite and Amphitrite started last summer when he was on vacation in Athens, where he was surrounded by sculptures and statues.
“Aphrodite is pretty incredible in terms of what she symbolizes, which is femininity and strength and this whole idea of timelessness because so many artists have interpreted her in nude in stone statues,” said the Georgian-born designer from his East London studio, having just come back from traveling for work to Florence and Cannes, France.
Koma’s line of work is all about the body — his dresses are red carpet and stage catnip for the likes of Beyoncé, Cindy Bruna and Kendall Jenner.
This season he took it to aquatic levels, a nod to goddess of the ocean Amphitrite, with transparent mint green sequins, blush pinks and metallic leathers.
“I wanted to bring something a bit more feminine but cold in a way, that’s when we came up with this sorbet-y feel,” said Koma, adding that he loves working with sequins because he can manipulate the color and fabric.
Some of the long gowns featured teardrops; big silver discs acting as sequins and prints of a pink koi fish, as well as the outline of the fish embroidered in crystals.
The house of Koma is a robust business: Last season the designer debuted footwear and this time around he’s venturing into handbags. He calls them challenges that he eventually overcomes and it’s essentially what keeps him excited about fashion.
After attending the AmfAR Gala 2023, he has walked away with another idea: high jewelry — either at his own label or a collaboration with a big jewelry house.
