Huishan Zhang, who has been dressing the real “crazy Rich Asians” in ostrich feathers, pearls and sequins for years, tried something different this time.
The spring 2023 collection felt lighter, younger and more stylish than before, as if his red princess friends have moved out of their grandparents’ grand mansions around the corner from the Forbidden City, and are now enjoying their best times in Singapore, New York, or London.
The daywear offering was bright and came with zippers, which is a first for Zhang, who is still stuck in China due to the nation’s strict COVID-19 rules.
There were also modern iterations of Qipao — think Zhou Xun’s character in “Cloud Atlas,” and denim pieces with crystal embellished pockets, collars, and sleeves.
Zhang’s evening numbers were beautiful as usual, only this time the silhouettes referenced a more retro-futuristic period of the French couture houses. He stripped back the excessive details and focused on A-line and caped shapes.
The designer explained that he began the collection with the mission to create a wardrobe for the 22nd century.
“I’ve been feeling very intrigued by the idea of how my vision of women’s clothes will evolve in the future. But I don’t want to wait. I want to find out now,” he said.