Edward Crutchley collaborated with Aron Alexandros De Vallier Petridis on developing the concept of his spring 2023 collection. He first met De Vallier Petridis on Instagram, and Crutchley later invited him to see his show, and eventually to walk for his brand from two seasons ago.
This time, De Vallier Petridis, who read ancient history and archeology in university, undoubtedly became a muse for Crutchley. Not only did he walk in the show, but he also influenced the collection as a historical and cultural consultant.
The two built the collection around the shapeshifting and constantly changing Greek sea god Proteus, which serves as a metaphor for the gender-fluid queer community.
It explains why the collection had an underwater disco party vibe. There were loose shirts made with crinkle fabrics, resembling the ocean reflections, patches of sequins here and there across see-through dresses as if they were scales.
The underwater metaphor continued with sheer underwear and pulled-down bralettes on hunky models where sequins covered their strategic parts. It created an impactful social media moment.
Crutchley did offer some safer options, such as a liquid-looking bomber jacket, and cozy cardigan with abstract pattern, but he also put dresses and platform heels on male models.
“I don’t really think about gender. It’s more about what that model suits and that they are comfortable with what they are wearing,” Crutchley said backstage.
He closed the show with an extravagant ballgown in Lurex-faced cloque jacquard. He settled on the silhouette after over 200 sketches.
“I am not a traditional couturier, but I absolutely enjoyed the experience. Each sketch was drawn from the last one, and that was where the gown ended up getting bigger and bigger,” he said.
