Priya Ahluwalia channeled the sounds of her childhood into this polished and elegant coed show that took place in a baroque church (now a concert hall) near Westminster Abbey, weaving the music straight into the clothing, and into the production.
The British designer, whose family roots are in India and Nigeria, tapped a saxophonist and jazz pianist to perform live music by Bollywood, Afrobeat, soul and hip hop greats including Lauryn Hill, Luther Vandross, Sade and Fela Kuti.
Prints and patterns reflected the sound waves of certain songs, or the ties on an Indian tabla drum.
Those waves, in various sizes and colors, washed over a chocolate miniskirt and a bright blue belted trouser suit, or as smudgy, low-key patterns on a denim jacket or mohair twinset.
The designer also drew from the style and stage looks of Hill and Sade, working bright stripes into a long-sleeved backless body suit, or mixing up hot, saturated shades — magenta, orange and hot pink — into a gutsy belted coat, a long gown with a flouncy neckline and cuffs, or sensual, curve-hugging knit dresses.
Denim, made with recycled cotton, was inspired by Hill, and came as a short hoodie dress with diagonal panels and an asymmetric hemline.
A long and slim fishtail denim skirt with a train may have proven difficult for the model to maneuver on the runway, but it looked spectacular paired with a shrunken denim jacket.
Ahluwalia added a few more high notes to this collection with branded footwear, eyewear, large silver “A” buckles on belts and tiny, tinkling A-shaped charms dangling from the edges of a cutout black minidress.
