More than two decades after Wes Anderson’s The Royal Tenenbaums was first released, Gwyneth Paltrow’s Margot Tenenbaum remains on fashion moodboards everywhere. With her long fur coat, Hermès Birkin, red barrette, and pink gloves, it’s easy to see the draw of her girlish, yet sophisticated, charm.
Baum und Pferdgarten’s Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten are the latest in a long list of designers to be inspired by the cult character. Entitled “The Royal Baumgartens” (the pun writes itself), the duo’s latest collection posed the question: What would Margot wear in 2023?
Escaping into Anderson’s cinematic universe felt right for the state of permacrisis we’re currently living through. “You need funny stories in a difficult time,” Baumgarten said during a preview. “There’s something naive about the characters that spoke to us.” Plus, the director’s distinctive use of color also dovetailed neatly with the uplifting palette that the brand has long been known for.
The designers’ reference point was hard to miss as models came down the runway—dominated by an imposing version of Richie’s yellow tent—wearing red hair clips and Mary-Janes teamed with argyle socks. There was a striped twin-set paired with faux-shearling outerwear; snakeskin-printed vinyl coats; and a see-through floral mesh dress that nodded to the character’s nude slip. A white blouse and matching flippy skirt, printed all over with a sketch of Margot’s face, felt less gimmicky than one might think. Influences from other characters featured too, from Chas’s tracksuit in red and blue to the tennis-ball prints and sweatbands inspired by Richie.
Looks that veered into the ’80s and ’90s—such as the neon puffer jacket and matching padded skirt—were less successful in capturing the Margot spirit, although one can imagine them being a hit with the street-style set gathered outside the show. Indeed, given the film’s unwavering popularity, the collection will no doubt have plenty of appeal.
