With her sophomore collection for By Malene Birger, Maja Dixdotter confirmed the GPS coordinates she punched in last season. But in contrast to the chic nomads who stalked rapidly through the brand’s spring film toward an unknown destination, it’s clear that the designer is moving forward slowly and with a set direction. “For me, it’s a lot about continuation, about building this style universe,” she said.
Spring 2022 is a recognizable evolution of fall 2021 in terms of silhouette and texture. Knits are back but less chunky; there’s smooth leather and, unexpectedly, soft velvet, which is generally a fall fabric. Dixdotter says she likes contrasts. Comfort is high on her list as well.
Fall’s hygge mood has been replaced with one that’s more adventurous—minimalism meets Marrakech. A dress with printed frames conjured Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco for me, but that wasn’t on Dixdotter’s radar at all. Folk costumes and the confidence she’s observed in many older people were among her observations, yet she stresses that she prefers her work to be unconnected to specific references or places. “I just want it to be super free,” she said. “I hope [my work] is perceived as bohemian luxe.” Done and done.
