Rather than trying to reinvent the wheel every season, Maja Dixdotter takes an evolutionary approach to design at By Malene Birger, building on what came before. The creative director has made bohemian-infused minimalism the brand’s code, and the fall collection underlined her commitment to it.
Textiles and textures are drivers for Dixdotter’s creativity and she chooses her materials with comfort in mind. Knitwear is an important category for her, and fall’s focus was on nubby knits. Fluffy shearling created a different kind of softness as did a somewhat bulky full-length “fur” that was an example, she said, of her maximalist approach to minimalism this season. Leather and tailoring provided structure and balance.
The city of Florence inspired the palette, especially the warm yellows. “When I look back to my studies [in Florence], everything I did [was] also all these golden tones and dusty shades, which apparently I really like,” Dixdotter said. Sporty nylon was newer territory, and she also included some scalloped-edge pieces with a more graphic and cooler mood than the rest of the lineup. This was a warm collection, infused with the light of the south, but it spoke to the northern soul.
