It’s a shame not to be able to see a Henrik Vibskov show in person because the experience is always a captivating one. He treats the runway as a stage, typically with some sort of eccentric art performance piece. Watching on a computer screen this season wasn’t the same mind-bending, sensory experience, but even virtually he created a spectacular visual moment around his designs.
Last season, his runway show was interrupted by a fire alarm. The elaborate setup included people slowly and meticulously bathing in surrealist tubs and bathrooms, all of whom had to exit the venue with the audience when the alarm went off, only to return to the bathtubs once there was no threat of fire. Vibskov decided to use the experience as a jumping-off point for his spring 2021 designs, presenting a collection inspired by the fashion show fire and a burning motorcycle he saw in the middle of Copenhagen not too long ago.
The clothes featured prints incorporating flame motifs, as well as melting ash and a fiery sun; one of the cleverest was created by melting a Polaroid picture onto fabric. The best silhouettes included an oversized baby doll dress and easy suiting; they were polished without feeling stiff or overly sophisticated. On the livestream, models walked down a runway surrounding a herd of gigantic white rocking horses ridden by performers wearing voluminous hoop skirts. Horses were another theme for Vibskov this season: He cited the “horsepower” of the burning motorcycle as well as the fact that horses will typically return to their stall in a burning barn because they perceive it as a safe space. As is typical with a Vibskov collection, there was a lot going on. But as big as his shows and performances are, he designs with the every day in mind. His clothes tend to be quite wearable and approachable, while remaining unique. In other words, they’re fire.
