Floatation devices were on hand at Henrik Vibskov’s show. Inner tubes were stacked in columns at the center of a public basketball court and some were laying airless on the ground, being pumped by dutiful Vibskov team members. The title of his collection was “Stuck Under the Surface,” and it was an exploration of the ways in which we are stagnant in life, in thought, in everything.
Vibskov said that “the feeling of being stuck can be a driving force, which pushes you to break out from a given situation, change your point of view, or make you realize that change is needed. Contrariwise it can be the thing that keeps you from making decisions or moving forward—a paralyzing feeling, ruthless, absurd, and sometimes even funny.” Humor was certainly present this season, conveyed via embroideries of lobsters with their claws tied together or printed sardines stuck in a box. Other funny motifs for sweaters, dresses, and tops included a couple stuck dancing a waltz and a ship stranded on a bridge.
Vibskov dressed his female models in crafty, mixed-material platform heels, fashioned with pumps, wooden blocks, and foam padding. They were extremely difficult to walk in; many of the girls stumbled and shook, which felt a bit too on the torturous end of restriction. Focusing the eye on the actual clothing, though, reaffirmed Vibskov’s talent—he makes kooky yet totally wearable garments, like tiered checked ruffle dresses and playful but sturdy outerwear. He’s smart in the way he uses simplistic, graphic patterns to punctuate his designs, and he seems to never be without a deep, provocative runway set and collection thesis. He’s certainly not stuck.
