Henrik Vibskov began his Spring collection by thinking about the wind. The designer pondered how much we depend on this element, whether for transport or for energy. He also acknowledged its darker side, when a refreshing breeze turns into forceful, destructive gusts, storms, and hurricanes. His inspiration was brought to life by the sculptural silhouettes for his latest garments, which reflected the movements of clothes in the wind. Vibskov achieved this with aerodynamic paneling on a dress; a skirt constructed to look as if it were flying at full mast; and cropped capes with sleeves blown up like balloons. More obvious and cheeky references to windy activities came in the form of a sailboat print on a few of the garments and oversize onesies that looked like Top Gun flight suits from somewhere far in the future.
This was a relatively light and easy showing for the Danish designer. He tends to use heavy knits and pile on the layering techniques, but this time there were more silks, wrap dresses, and breezy (both literally and figuratively speaking) tops and trousers alongside the structured pieces. The direct nods to coasting at sea or cruising through the air weren’t as compelling as the collection’s other elements, but in all this was a clever lineup from Vibskov that will take his customers, men and women, through clear skies or storms.
