After two seasons as creative director of By Malene Birger, Mathilde Torp Mader is starting to settle into her role. Her Fall 2019 show for the O.G. Danish contemporary label was held inside the company’s charming 19th-century National Romantic–style headquarters. The smaller, more classic space helped to highlight the sophistication behind her designs. Overall, the styling was smart, and the lineup of clothes streamlined. The soft and subtle mixed-print dresses topped with backless sweater-vests didn’t feel too fussy or forced, and a white shearling peacoat worn over cropped wide-leg knit trousers served as evidence of Torp Mader’s ability to create chic, effortless fashion.
In fact, her minimally minded pieces have the potential to draw in a substantial international contingent in a post–Phoebe Philo world (especially among those who want that look for slightly less money). Torp Mader is solid when it comes to her craft and her point of view, even if she missteps slightly here and there with a playful embellishment or a quirky silhouette. She’s a fine talent on the Copenhagen fashion scene, paving an exciting path for the next iteration of By Malene Birger.
