Seeing a collection by Christina Exteen, Creative Director of By Malene Birger, it’s no surprise that the brand is one of Copenhagen’s most internationally visible and commercially viable brands. Birger launched the business in 2003—call her the true O.G. of Copenhagen Fashion Week. And while she left the company back in 2014, over the last few years Exteen has romanced buyers from top online retailers like MyTheresa and Net-a-Porter and has attracted a front row lineup of local Insta stars. This season, the clothes were a direct reflection of her sellable formula and her keen eye for popular, profitable trends. Some were tweaked with her great handiwork, but others fell a bit short.
The black pleather wide-collar trenchcoat with a red and blue rope belt that opened the show belonged in the former category. There was also a beautifully tailored knit dress and a great take on a classic striped blue shirtdress with asymmetrical buttons running up the sides of each sleeve. These pieces, plus Exteen’s smart range of tan trousers and striped shorts, gave way to less cohesive ensembles. Namely, an emerald-colored bodysuit and matching wrap skirt and an oddly draped green dress layered with sheer black fabric beneath the hem. With all of the frills and use of patchwork leathers and snakeskin, the bags were a bit fussy this season as well.
Exteen tends to play by the rules when it comes to making wearable clothing, but you can tell that she likes to shake things up from time to time, and that gesture, good or bad, is certainly worth a lot when it comes from a big name brand like this one.
