Astrid Andersen is the Danish-born, London-based torchbearer for genuinely cool street and sportswear-inspired fashion. For her Spring 2018 women’s show yesterday, she chose a behemoth space inside an empty old factory. It looked like something Marc Jacobs might have chosen for a venue, which is to say that Andersen has an eye and marketing sense as sharp as any established name in the business. The presentation came on the heels of the announcement of a collaboration with rapper M.I.A. and another with Danish jewelry label Monies.
Having launched womenswear for Fall 2017, Andersen’s second official go at lady clothes felt a tad more grown-up but with no less of an edge. She spent less time focused on her signature logo and more on fabric variation, whether it was denim, velvet, fur, leather, or a surprisingly traditional striped cotton poplin. The shirting was more sophisticated this time around, and a new butterfly- and floral-printed series brought a fresh feminine sensibility to her menswear-inspired repertoire. Yes, she takes risks and created some pretty out-there pieces (note the floor-length veiled bucket hat), but she’s no dummy when it comes to editing and curating a whole collection that will sell. Savvy and rebellious—those are the key qualities that truly make this designer one to watch.
