Astrid Andersen’s Copenhagen women’s show was a continuation of the Buffalo-era menswear collection she presented in London in early January. Last month she told Vogue’s Luke Leitch that the Buffalo moment appealed to her because it was “about this open-mindedness, not thinking about race or gender or anything, breaking all boundaries.”
Investigating the period, she wound up breaking some boundaries of her own. The hot-pink fur, metallic blue jacket, and yellow head-to-toe tartan here were striking for sure, and she deserves kudos for experimenting with new hues and patterns.
However, on at least a few of the looks, there was a lot going on. Andersen’s mixed-and-matched prints and her layering techniques, while usually thoughtful and tidy, were at times a bit heavy-handed. But because it’s Andersen, the collection as a whole did give off a cool vibe. It was a more playful evolution for her and a little more feminine as well. This was especially true of the hoodie dresses and tees stamped with images of original Buffalo girl Jeny Howorth (her daughter Georgia walked in the show). The puffer jackets and vests were noteworthy too, which is saying a lot since those are two athleisure staples we’ve become more than accustomed to seeing on runways these days. That’s the thing about this designer: She makes clothes that challenge our preconceived perceptions of what sportswear, menswear, and womenswear are all supposed to look like.
