On a surprisingly chilly August night in Copenhagen, Danish favorite Henrik Vibskov drew a horde of fashion types to the city’s meatpacking district. Between two buildings (some of which remain, even in the much-changed neighborhood, actively home to the actual packing of meat), the designer set up shop, literally. An eerie, theatrical butcher store sprung to life, with rows of hanging stuffed knit “sausages” and workers attending to them.
Vibskov, with his idiosyncratic eye, gravitated in particular to the delightful vulgarity of a butcher’s window, of its profusion and flesh-and-blood wares. That hedonistic idea he tempered with the beautiful precision of the martial arts, sending out crisp, obi-belted dresses and poplin shirting . . . all topped off with thick ribbons in a terrific, block-printed salami design. Elegant and offbeat, this collection gave a dynamic sense of the designer’s myriad talents. Knits remain as strong a category for Vibskov as ever, from his mod geometric intarsias to craftier fringed numbers—particularly covetable every time the wind kicked up.
