Walking into Astrid Andersen’s first full womenswear show, the cool factor was palpable before the first look hit the runway. The crowd gave off a radical vibe, which, up until that moment, was noticeably absent from the rest of the front rows in Copenhagen. As soon as the Frank Ocean soundtrack went silent and DJ James Massiah’s voice took over, Andersen began her lineup with a sultry version of the tracksuit: a long burgundy skirt with a high slit and banded waistline worn with a matching crop top. From there, the gold-buttoned track pant morphed into a sophisticated velvet shirt that was cut long to the ankle and short in the back. The designer also used casual corduroy to craft slouchy great-looking jumpsuits and oversize jackets with shearling collars. Andersen accessorized her Fall clothes with velvet flatcaps à la Grandmaster Flash and white Nike Flyknit sneakers. When it came to prints, she kept her signature basketball-inspired logo throughout, while also showing a subtle black and gray leopard pattern and a painterly feather symbol printed on silk.
With menswear and womenswear, which debuted Spring ’17, Andersen has proven herself a master at fusing hip-hop culture with beautifully executed fashion, which is no easy feat considering how much streetwear we’re seeing at the moment. In her hometown of Copenhagen, with lace and velvet spun brilliantly onto comfortable athletic gear for her new female fans (and old ones who have been buying her menswear), the designer has given the fashion world a fresh and provocative new perspective on a ubiquitous trend. It’s your game now, Ms. Andersen.
