Naeem Khan’s global wholesale director Marco Cattoretti was on hand to give the presentation for the label’s Spring 2020 bridal collection today. He began by talking about a story written by Vogue’s Emily Farra last week, which discussed the need for a more modern bridal market in 2020, one that speaks to women who want to get married in something that feels empowering, not princess-y. Cattoretti said they’re laser-focused on this concept at Naeem Khan. This season, there was certainly less embellishment than in the past, and fabrications felt lighter, too, both of which added to his vision of a strong, stand-on-her-own kind of woman, no extra fluff required. The delicate embroideries and hand-stitched veils offered a subtler take on the designer’s typically dazzling—bridalwear.
Sheer long sleeves and low V-necks were a nice update, as were the slimmer silhouettes: Skirts were neither too billowy nor too voluminous, with just the right amount of ethereal float. All of Khan’s pieces were still wildly romantic, which did nod to the storybook wedding aesthetic. That said, he also incorporated a few sexier pieces, including a riff on a Halston-inspired slip from ready-to-wear and a few playful minidresses for the after-party (and after-after-party).
As far as Khan’s evolving approach to bridal, it wasn’t that the dresses felt particularly modern. Where Khan succeeded in refreshing the old codes was in this collection’s versatility: There were traditional dresses, flirty dresses, and dresses that were meant to show off your curves. The most modern aspect was that sense of choice, which is what the millennial bride is really looking for these days.