Georgina Chapman and her Marchesa design team found their Fall 2020 bridal inspiration in ikebana, the Japanese art of floral arrangements. Flowers are a signature motif chez Marchesa, but this season’s interpretation went beyond the usual embroideries and three-dimensional petals. Instead, design director Anna Holvik said they channeled one of ikebana’s core principles: that every leaf, branch, and petal is of equal importance. Our minds are trained to assign greater significance to the most impressive detail, like a giant orchid or the one that seems “the most difficult,” like artfully arranged branches, but ikebana challenges us to do the opposite. It’s a lesson many of us could stand to apply elsewhere in our lives.
For this collection, the concept translated to a renewed focus on every element of a dress: the interior structure, the lining, the boning, and the subtle draping, in addition to the eye-catching pearl beading and appliqués that actually get photographed. The hyper-detailed approach resulted in a surprising overall sense of lightness: Instead of crinolines, layered skirts, and rigid bustiers, the ballgowns came in a contoured tulle that hardly weighed anything. Similarly, Holvik pointed out a new taffeta they’d developed with a mill, which came with subtle ivory floral embroidery. On a sculptural halter gown, it had a delicate, barely there quality you wouldn’t necessarily get with embellishments by hand—and since the fabric is produced by the yard, not custom-stitched, the lead time will be much shorter too.
On that note, beyond the ikebana references, Holvik said they were thinking about how the modern bride shops. Most women aren’t buying their gown a year in advance anymore, though Marchesa exists somewhat outside of industry trends; its couture bride ostensibly knows that a hand-embellished dress can’t be rushed in three months. Still, what she has in common with brides everywhere is a desire to feel more comfortable and at ease in her gown. Free of petticoats, excessive boning, or heavy embellishments, these are meant to give her room to dance, drink Champagne, and simply be in the moment, rather than fuss over her dress.
