Make no mistake, some of these Marchesa gowns are heavy. They have layers of tulle, structured underskirts, and endless trains, all par for the course in the world of bridal couture. But somehow they look light as air, a testament to the skill and craftsmanship of Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s studio. The designers specialize in a kind of airy, ethereal romance, and Spring’s mood was particularly soft, from pearl-embroidered lace columns to ball gowns layered with swaths of sheer tulle. Illusion sleeves and necklines were a focus, too: One long-sleeved gown came with puffs of 3-D roses floating down the arms, while another was scattered with hand-embroidered lace along the bodice. Veils have always been popular at Marchesa, but usually they’re sold as stand-alone, interchangeable accessories. For Spring, the label whipped up specific veils for each dress, so the result is more of a full-on look.
Most brides will remove those veils after the ceremony, an important part of the bridal “transformation.” Marchesa has been experimenting with transformative properties for a few seasons now: For Fall, it showed removable overskirts, and Spring’s new twists were detachable sleeves, tulle capes, and tie-front blouses (a trend we saw elsewhere). They’ll be a boon for brides who need to dress a bit conservatively for their ceremonies: Once they say “I do,” they can remove the whisper-sheer layers and hit the dance floor—no second dress needed.