A model stomped around in lace-up platform boots on the top floor of Vivienne Westwood’s New York store and studio space. She was wearing an Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring 2019 Bridal creation which, along with the thick, sky-high heels, didn’t look very “bridal” at all. With a burgundy-red veil on her head, she was the antithesis of a cookie-cutter bride, one who favors a mid-length ivory dress held up by suspenders as opposed to a full-skirted, stark-white confection. This is the woman Westwood has always imagined walking down the aisle, ever since she started making cool, romantic corset gowns in the 1990s, iconic styles worn by the likes of Jerry Hall and Dita Von Teese. Kronthaler has added his bold touch to Westwood’s already bold bridal palette, with intricate pieces inspired by Austrian folk costumes and his recent Fall 2018 ready-to-wear collection for the house.
An otherworldly asymmetrical dress with removable panels of feathers was one such look. Another was a gown exploding with ruffles and lace detailing. The seamless transition from runway to bridal is what makes Kronthaler and Westwood’s designs so transfixing in a market that can often feel repetitive. There is real fashion here, and despite the tight corsets and quirky cuts (and the squeaky rubber used for an entire dress), a lot of practicality, too: Kronthaler emphasized separates in this collection, namely the drawstring trousers and matching jacket and a lace skirt with pockets and a coordinating top styled with a baseball hat. There wasn’t something for every bride, and that’s exactly what made the collection so appealing.
