Summing up a fashion career is no small task, but Amsale Aberra’s final collection managed just that. Just a few weeks ago, news of Aberra’s passing stunned and saddened the industry, but as per her wishes, the Spring 2019 bridal show went on as planned. On Friday, friends, family, and editors convened in the penthouse of the Gramercy Park Hotel to celebrate Aberra and her life’s work.
Arriving on the scene in the late ’80s when maximalism typified the bridal market, Aberra swung the pendulum in the other direction with her pared-back, refined dresses. That history was reflected in the new collection, composed of understated gowns for brides who prefer an effortless look. The mood was simple and elegant, from a halter dress in lush taffeta to a spaghetti-strap gown with delicate seaming.
Sticking to the classics with a range of white gowns elevated by subtle details, this collection included two distinct lines: Nouvelle Amsale, the relaunched, minimalist-leaning label, and Amsale, its more decadent cousin. Each lineup had its high points, but the addition of luxurious Chantilly lace and silk faille provided the latter category with a few dreamier options, most notably the intricately crafted ball gown covered in crystal embroidery and pearls.
Rounding out the show was a tribute to the A101 column, the first gown Aberra ever designed. In duchesse satin with an illusion neckline, it remains one of the brand’s signatures, and has been co-opted and copied countless times since its debut in 1990. Its sense of timelessness—a dress that could come from and look chic in any era—will serve as Aberra’s legacy.
