Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren aren’t out to make an average lace gown. In fact, Fall marked the first time they’d ever used lace at all for bridal; they tend to work in more substantial, lustrous bonded satin or explosive tulle and generally avoid anything too light or fussy. The lace gowns they introduced were neither of those things, of course: Spliced into patchwork motifs, they had the sense of humor and surprise we expect from Viktor & Rolf, both in bridal and ready-to-wear. A full-skirted gown with narrow strips of varying lace and tufts of tulle came with big, frothy tulle sleeves and a high neckline, while a multi-lace minidress marked another new direction for V&R: Its first foray into short dresses.
Some V&R brides have probably dreamed of wearing a minidress down the aisle, but it’s also safe to assume they’re interested in buying more than one. In the age of “Instagram weddings,” multiple ceremonies, and the trend for wearing two (or three or four) looks in a single night, designers need to offer serious variety. V&R’s jumpsuits are consistently popular—Fall included a new one with a tuxedo-like shirt and giant sash—and the party dresses will be a hit with brides who want to say “I do” in a ball gown covered in rows of couture flowers, then change into something more dance friendly for the reception.
Of course, if you don’t want to bother with multiple changes, Horsting and Snoeren work confidently in the kind of sleek yet unconventional dresses you can still move in. Fall’s standouts were a tea-length pleated tulle frock (all the better to show off your shoes) and a satin A-line halter gown studded with tiny crystals and matte beads.
