Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s new Marchesa collection might convince even the beach-obsessed bride to scrap everything for a fall wedding instead. Feather-trimmed jackets, long kimono sleeves, and touches of velvet and chenille lent a cozy richness not often seen in the bridal market, where lightness and whimsy tend to be in higher demand. The velvety flowers and tufted chenille actually felt more lush and romantic (read: touchable!) than the stiff, traditional embroideries and embellishments you find elsewhere, and were a welcome departure from the sheer “naked dresses” we’re still seeing in so many New York collections.
Of course, there were touches of sparkle here and there for the bride who wants both: One standout V-neck column was covered in pearly roses and a cascade of wispy feathers, and an A-line gown with a swatch of knotted tulle around the shoulders combined feathers, silk petals, and tiny pearl beads. Then there was the gown in ultrasoft chenille “lace” with wide bell sleeves and a ribbon at the waist; on a chilly, gray day in Soho, it was easy to picture a bride wearing it for a crisp October wedding in Aspen or upstate New York. The best part: She’d actually be comfortable—not restricted, corseted, or unable to sit down—throughout the night.
