After debuting their Mariage collection last fall, Viktor & Rolf’s wedding business is apparently booming. We’d venture it’s because designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s gowns nail a tricky balance: Even the most avant-garde ones have a pure, stripped-back quality, so they’re exquisite, yet timeless; artful, but not overpowering.
Fans of the high-concept label will notice a few of V&R’s signatures right away: handmade flowers, often the size of real blooms; layers upon layers of pleated tulle, sometimes sliced at an angle; and oversize satin bows. Brides looking for something grand but not princess-y will likely bookmark the halter gown covered in soft flowers and the shimmering, four-tiered dress in a material described as “flocked sequins.” From afar, it looked like it might be rough to the touch, but it was addictively soft, like ultra-fine velvet. Brides planning to buy a second, shorter dress for the reception, take note: The two bottom tiers on this one are removable.
And while “minimal” is rarely a word used to describe Viktor & Rolf’s collections, brides in the mood for a sparer look will be surprised to find plenty of options here. A strapless gown with a soft, languid bow was gorgeous, and there were two jumpsuits: one with a single bow at the shoulder, and another with an abbreviated train and rows of tiny bows across the back. They were a far cry from Viktor & Rolf’s experimental creations, but it’s nice to see their take on a woman’s “real life” fare—even if it's just for one (very significant) day of her life.
