Monique Lhuillier wants to get back to tradition. While last season’s collection emphasized a sexy, body-conscious silhouette, this lineup had a regal, covered-up elegance. “It’s about the formality and the timelessness that a wedding should have,” Lhuillier said before the show at Carnegie Hall. Her customers seem to agree; Lhuillier noted that her social media following is responding to her more classic designs. “When I was a bride, I wanted to stand out and wear something that felt right for that celebration,” she said. “Not worry about whether it was a fashionable choice or in line with the trends.”
Lhuillier has a knack for subtle colors beyond white and ivory, like this season’s “latte” and “cappuccino” hues. The new standout shade was blush pink, as seen on a Chantilly lace bustier dress with an asymmetrical pleated tulle skirt. Florals were a recurring theme: All of the models wore organza roses in their hair, and a tiered peplum dress was hand-painted with a floral dégradé motif. Elsewhere, florals were layered over point d’esprit, like a capelet over a sweet strapless gown. There were also jewel-encrusted capes, some made entirely from ropes of pearls, which were just the thing to jazz up the more understated dresses. As the designer put it, “A little sparkle goes a long way.”