Christopher Esber was fresh off his debut New York Fashion Week show when he returned to Australia for Resort. Where others might have taken a victory lap, Esber decided to challenge himself. “I started coming across fabrics that I’m not necessarily in love with, like polka dots, bold stripes, and sheers,” he said backstage. “I would normally opt out here, but instead I thought, How can I make it workable within my DNA and what I really want to do?”
There’s something a bit masochistic about that approach, but Esber prefers to strive than rest on his laurels. While that is admirable, it doesn’t always make for the most appealing collections. On the runway, the designer’s best turns were looks that expanded upon the sophisticated ease he’s known for. A sheer navy midi dress had a certain Helmut Lang–ian appeal—as did another acid yellow one, although a group of buyers seemed less than thrilled by that iridescent hue. A stretch of pure white pieces, shown toward the end of the presentation, were successful. Suiting, not a regular occurrence in the world of Esber, was a welcome addition, especially on the back of ’90s model Emma Balfour.
