What happens when techwear and comfort wear merge? Fumito Ganryu believes that the two elements in combination form an ideal daily uniform to wear in every situation. “For me, functionality and design are always connected. I wanted to find ways of improving technical clothing by stripping them down into their essential forms,” he said.
Technical jackets with water-repellant properties and side zippers for added breathability came in neutral shades of gray and black. Use of side zippers had the added effect of alternating the shape of the jackets from tight-fitting and sleek to more comfortable wider
fits.
Hoodless jackets were a deliberate design decision to reduce fuss and improve their silhouette. “I find that hoods add weight to the back of garments in a way that makes them uncomfortable,” Ganryu explained. Elements of other everyday garments were subverted to improve the experience of the wearer. Long-sleeved white shirts were designed with multiple pleats at the back to allow for a nicer fit on the body and increased movement. Other shirts and t-shirts came with utilitarian pockets and mesh inner lining.
The Ganryu universe is split into two parts. The pragmatic mainline and the “red label” which he describes as wearable art, giving him an outlet to play with bolder colors and shapes. In this collection, he experimented with yarn colors to create optical illusions. One of the knitted jumpers used a mixture of a mint green yarn with a lighter shade of green to create the illusion of neon green.
The intention to present the two collections side-by-side was a deliberate effort to contrast the playful with the practical. Models sporting the mainline collection stared intensely at others wearing the red label, mimicking how people look at artwork in a gallery.
