It’s not a time for bold gestures in fashion, as the general mood is more about simplifying than amplifying, more about lowering the volume than sending out loud statements. How can a brand like Etro, whose visually compelling energy is fueled by the vibration of colors and imaginative patterns, adjust to a cooled-down climate? At today’s menswear show, Marco de Vincenzo offered his own answer.
Visiting an old bookstore in his Sicilian hometown of Messina, he came upon an antique tome filled with allegorical images of esoteric arcanas from the 17th century, depicting vices and virtues. “They were using figurations to express concepts or hidden meanings,” said De Vincenzo. “I know it may sound weird, but those images made me think about TikTok, memes, GIFs, which are our non-verbal way of communicating through visuals.” It was a telling indicator of the designer’s intuitive approach to what he’s doing at Etro, channeling the instinctive more than the rational.
All that enigmatic imagery found its way into today’s collection; Temperance, Tenacity, Eternity, Lust were jacquarded into panels at the back or at the front of the roomy, boxy, short-sleeved bowling shirts that here, as in many of this week’s shows, were one of the collection’s recurring staples. Printed in soft-toned hues and worn over trailing loose pants also in subdued, not-so-summery solid colors, they made the case for the fluidity and balanced intensity De Vincenzo infused in this season’s garments.
Rigidity of construction was also banned not only from tailoring but also from the general feel of the collection. “I wanted shapes barely touching the body,” said De Vincenzo. Oversize-cut blazers had soft-jutting shoulders and were worn with equally wide, comfortable pajama trousers or shorts; long robe-dusters referenced Etro’s bohemian and eccentric nature, yet their tapestry-inspired printed patterns were toned down in scale and color to a sort of cool domesticity. In one of the collection’s decorative standouts, the same geometric motifs were finely beaded in shades of green on the generous volumes of a shirt/shorts combo.
Some vibrancy was provided by a series of multicolor fuzzy jumpers that brought to mind textured Anatolian Filiki rugs. The finale was also invigorated by a jolt of vitality and a bit of flash. A series of conspicuous fringed capes and coats made from thick vintage blankets woven in abstract florals hit the right note between the artisanal and the extravagant. They’ll be surefire showstoppers.
