“I’d like to explore a more rugged, casual side of Dunhill and embrace its Britishness—in terms of pattern, color, and texture—but in a lighter way.” So said freshly appointed Dunhill creative director Simon Holloway about his vision for the brand. “I don’t want to do fussy, old, heavy English clothes because I don’t think they’re relevant—I’m about embracing a kind of handsome, masculine sensibility with a sensitive approach.”
Holloway took on the leading role earlier this year, and the brand’s in-house team primarily designed the spring collection, but key elements align with his creative vision. With years of experience at Agnona, Hogan, and Ralph Lauren, Holloway has a sophisticated aesthetic that leans minimal. In keeping with that, this season’s color palette was mostly neutrals, with suede jackets (including a standout field-jacket style), cashmere knitwear, cotton button-downs, and leather separates appearing in browns and navies.
The tailoring, a Dunhill cornerstone, was cut in soft, relaxed silhouettes and ranged from full micro-check wool-cashmere suits to half-lined Belgravia wool jackets and cotton-silk pleated pants. Other notable moments included an impeccably crafted unlined brown suede blouson, offering a more lightweight outerwear choice for warmer months. Elsewhere, a navy wool shirt jacket cleverly incorporated cigar pockets as an homage to the brand’s founder, Alfred Dunhill, who opened a small tobacconist’s shop on Duke Street in London back in 1907.
Holloway’s official debut is scheduled for next February in London, marking a departure from the brand’s usual show venue in Paris.