Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce are in soul-searching mode. They’ve been questioning the meaning of their practice for quite some time, and every season they seem to be reaching a deeper understanding of what their work is about. Concepts of identity; the theme of leaving a long-lasting, recognizable legacy; the permanence or impermanence of trends—this is what they keep ruminating about.
The depth of the conversation they’re having was apparent at the press conference before today’s show. Punctuated by their sharp sense of humor, it was as entertaining as it was thought-provoking. Domenico said: “Bombarded as we are by the constant noise of social media and by the turnover of trends, influencers of not-so-reliable standing, and a deluge of images, we keep asking ourselves, ‘Will people remember us? Will we leave a remarkable-enough legacy, a style that stands the test of time?’”
The invitation to the show arrived in a black envelope containing a metal replica of a credit card, together with a booklet of the collection’s images. The word STYLE was printed in capital letters on its front page. Stefano explained: “The credit card is an indicator, a symbol of identity. You are its only owner, it’s about you being who you are. Style also is about having a strong identity, solid foundations.” Domenico chimed in: “‘Style’ is rather different than ‘fashion.’ So we’ve tried to make something new, but within the codes of our own style, keeping it firm and recognizable while making it evolve.”
Dolce & Gabbana shouldn’t be afraid of not leaving a legacy. Their codes are powerful enough to be twisted and turned without losing an inch of their inherent character. Menswear has always been an expressive exercise for them, and, for spring, they excavated from their repertoire a series of signifiers that were rendered in refreshed, streamlined interpretations. The list comprised “the tank top, the color black to which we’re devoted, the coppola, the rosary, lace, transparencies, Sicily.” “But above all, it’s the cut and how our tailoring is constructed,” they added.
The approach wasn’t exactly reductionist, yet a certain gentle, modern simplification was at play throughout the collection. The silhouette was slender, just occasionally kept roomier, yet soft and flowy, anchored by light, flat boot-socks in supple leather. Colors were limited to a sharp palette of black, white, caramel, gray, and dark brown. Prints were absent, except from the polka dots on a see-through chiffon blouse with a breezy trailing bow. Opposing the handsome tailored precision of sculpted pantsuits, transparencies played with sensuality rather than carnality; embellishments were sparsely embroidered on crisp Oxford ensembles; organza flowers from Alta Moda were pinned on lapels. In a nod to the pagan deities of Magna Grecia and the ancient Sicilian statuary, tank tops were reinterpreted into tight-draped bustiers and T-shirts, worn with high-waist fluid trousers.
“A dress has to fit perfectly to an actual body; it doesn’t have to be just trendy or cool,” they said. “That’s why the discipline of construction, for us, is so important.” From the front row, house aficionados Machine Gun Kelly, K-pop star Doyoung, Italian singer Blanco, and a string of towering basketball players seemed utterly convinced that Dolce & Gabbana’s legacy is in a pretty good shape.
