The popular but reductive view of voodoo is that it is used to do harm. Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh have produced a collection based around the more positive aspects of vodou originating from Haiti—namely, that it is a unifying force, a way to envision the living world and its spirits as entirely interconnected.
But if we live in a world where technology connects us, for better or worse, today’s Botter show was more about signaling connection and protection through creation. And in a moment when protection might well be expressed ominously, they did so with an artistic impulse and a sense of play.
The opening look featured a tank top of red upcycled scoubidou woven into a knit base so that it projected a kind-of plasticky armor. This intricate, dimensional technique would reappear throughout the lineup to even greater degrees of execution—a full warm-up suit, a women’s coordinated top and skirt in turquoise, and a few bag styles. There were strands of animal-like hair in polyester that were tacked to jackets and tops—a benign sacrificial gesture, call it—and sunglass lenses sprouting from jackets, presumably a less literal evil eye.
They entrusted Day Brierre, a digital artist from Haiti, with a depiction of the country’s diaspora and then transferred these eye-catching illustrations to a flowing printed silk dress and even more impressively, as a jacquard woven with algae. As for the belts strung from hands, the doll heads affixed to dinosaur bodies, and all the other accessories-cum-talismans, these were created by Daniel Von Weinberger, who hit the rare sweet spot of cool and creepy.
Amidst all these designs imbued with symbolism were tailored pieces that twisted, interlaced, and wrapped to emphasize what Herrebrugh described as “an ongoing flow.” A lime green jacket was given an extra panel and a lapel that wrapped around the neck, extending like a scarf. They also expanded their aquatic repertoire with tops boasting trompe l’oeil triangle bikinis, elevated fishing nets, an enticing sartorial life-vest garment, and watery print organza cut like scales. The looks were breezy and easy, yet the layers of detail were exceptional. This was, fins down, their most finessed outing thus far.
If you’re wondering about the sneakers, they continue to collaborate with Reebok, producing both a reimagined soccer cleat style as well as an updated version of the 3D-printed slide created with HP. Meanwhile, the show attracted an impressive turnout of fashion-inclined music artists including Asake, Aminé, and Miguel, who applauded the label’s engagement in sustainability initiatives beyond its singular point of view. Aminé said he was eyeing the total scoubidou look, a good sign that the designers’ boldness had been well-received. The couple confirmed that they were intentional about exploring “with more depth” this season—and on all levels. It would seem this was also their first true opportunity to apply their Nina Ricci immersion on their own terms. “We feel free and this is what we want you to feel as well,” said Botter.
