It’s really hard to not try hard. Ask Vincent Cassell, who opened tonight’s Ami show with his signature nonchalance, or ask Alexandre Mattiussi, whose collection was all about doing less.
Ease is the word of the summer, at least based on the designers I’ve talked to for menswear thus far. For Mattiussi, it’s more of a personal quest, as he described it at a preview, a return to form. After his blowout show a year ago, the Ami designer is looking to go back to what made him start the label. “The growth of the brand has been amazing, and it’s happened so fast,” he said. “I want to go back to the ’90s, when I fell in love with fashion—so the essentials and a real wardrobe.”
Doing less for Mattiussi this season meant a smaller collection, a more focused point of view, and a show with fewer “special effects.” Quintessential ’90s tailoring came in tones of warm gray, a chic dusty green, and a great smudged beige. The proportions elongated the body, offering sophistication in the womenswear and a hefty but relaxed silhouette in the men’s (a pair of pleated over-the-knee shorts were particular standouts). But Mattiussi was playful, too, experimenting with sequined fabrications in the shape of roomy button-downs and slip skirts. They jingled as models walked around the vast space, a dose of fashion ASMR to end a long day of shows. Also fun: a run of denim styles with embroidered sequins in a kooky camo.
Less convincing were the too-high slits on apron skirts and a couple of dresses—the allure and sensuality of this lineup were clearest in clothes that projected a relaxed confidence. Still, Mattiussi accomplished what he set out to do: return Ami to its essence. It was all luxe, contemporary, and French.
But doing less didn’t mean doing without celebrities. The actors Manu Rios and Halle Bailey sat front row, and fans screamed as others approached the venue. Once the machine starts, it’s hard to stop. While Mattiussi aimed for subtlety over spectacle this time around, there was nothing quiet about his luxury.
