Naeem Khan just celebrated 20 years in business, a milestone for any brand, but this resort collection seemed made almost on autopilot, with few surprises. “It’s not about a vibe,” the designer said, rather it’s “happy clothes that you’re going on holiday in.” When asked why one dress, pretty but unrelated to the rest of the lineup, was included, Khan’s answer—because he liked it—felt offhand. That’s his prerogative, of course, but it would be nice to see some editorial rigor applied here.
It’s not necessary to whip up a narrative around a collection; in fact, it’s refreshing that the designer doesn’t do that. The story at this brand always revolves around fabrics and decorative treatments. This season, there were papier maché embellishments as well as the more expected raffia and fringe work. The printed pieces were made using reprocessed chiffons and cottons, and sequins were applied to jersey (versus mesh) for a smoother, more liquid fit. The monochrome pieces in gold were especially winning as they balanced simplicity with a feeling of luxury and kept the focus on the body as much as its decoration.
