Francesca Ruffini is a bookworm with a talent for excavating hidden treasures from archives. On a recent textile research trip, she found an old drawing from the 1920s commissioned by French couturier Paul Poiret; it was a floral geometric motif, intended to be printed on a dress for his wife and muse, Denise Boulet.
Blown up to abstract proportions, the pattern was the decorative leitmotif of her spring For Restless Sleepers lineup. Printed on a white background for luminosity, it was a departure from the more dense and intricate graphics of previous collections. The generous volumes of caftans and billowy A-line gowns were another evolution from the pajama shape that’s at the base of Ruffini’s relaxed, elegant way of dressing.
Long stoles that can be wrapped around the neck or at the waist, or left loose trailing at the back, adding drama to tiered dresses and tunics cut like oversized T-shirts or extended polos. A sense of ease and versatility combined with a flair for artistic imagery is what makes Ruffini’s style distinctive. “I like simple lines and comfort; this is something I’m not compromising about,” she said. “I don’t like constrictions, I don’t think it’s modern. Yet a bit of drama, some frivolity, and a spirit of bohemia are necessary to make life more colorful.”
