The winds of change are blowing at Derek Lam 10 Crosby. Halfway through the making off of this resort collection, the label appointed a new creative director to lead its collections. The designer Kate Wallace comes to 10 Crosby after a long run at other contemporary labels in New York, most recently Club Monaco. “This is the start of a slight redirect to the brand,” she said at a preview, explaining that she and the team have been ruminating on the idea of American sportswear and working to place their woman back at the center of the design process. “We’re thinking of the way the clothes move, how the fabric moves on her body, and the way in which we are facilitating her life and not the other way around,” Wallace said.
It’s true that fashion tends to get distracted by lofty concepts and esoteric inspirations, often prioritizing a “vision” over the end customer. Wallace has the right idea prioritizing the way fashion can serve a person, and designing based on the way customers really wears clothes. Denim is a key pillar of the business at 10 Crosby, so silky tops, knit separates, and tailored pieces are all designed to be dressed down with a pair of jeans or elevated by slacks or a leather apron skirt. Details like a set of petal sleeves or an asymmetrical draped collar on a blouse set a sophisticated yet relaxed tone, as did a jersey column gown draped askew.
