As with most designers, Maryam Nassir Zadeh saves her more conceptual ideas for her main season runway shows, filling resort with wardrobing concepts that “feel most sincere to my style.” But unlike the rest, Zadeh harmonizes her past and present in her pre-seasons. “Most of what you see is resurrected from collections past,” she says, detailing how camisole tanks, silk blouses, and miniskirts from collections dating all the way to seven years ago are revived and remixed for a new, spirited look.
That mix of nostalgia and nowness is Zadeh’s gift. She looks to fashion’s collective past, creating novelty tees that harken to the early aughts and soft shorts that look like gym class uniforms, while still keeping an eye on the current moment. Based in the Lower East Side, she’s able to watch as her friends refresh their wardrobes to reflect how they have lived, sure, but also the way they would like to live next.
Here is what makes Zadeh’s resort collection all the more compelling. As hot girl summer evolves into hot girl autumn, winter, and spring, she has found a novel way to shed layers and create clothing that feels skimpy without sacrificing its smarts. From her showroom in Paris she held up a bodysuit that, on the hanger, looked like a teensy scrap of fabric. “This,” she laughs, “I don’t really know how to wear it! But I need it.” The urge to dress is inexorably tied to the urge to live. Zadeh does both beautifully.
