Huishan Zhang looked at a multitude of references for resort, but the 1950s Italian movie stars Silvana Mangano and Anna Magnani served as the initial inspiration. “There was a celebration of curves in women’s clothes throughout their rise to fame,” the Chinese-born designer asserted from his atelier in Qingdao. “I wanted to explore the exaggerated female form of this era’s nipped-in silhouette.” Whether by way of a full brocade skirt that’s panniered at the hip, or a corseted denim jacket with contrast stitching, the collection features cinched waistlines throughout.
In contrast to the hyper-feminine silhouette, Zhang also took inspiration from the ’90s for its minimalist aesthetic and radical attitude. Even the imagery—lensed by Alice Neale amidst the morning sunshine of London’s swanky Mayfair district—aimed to emulate the mood of leaving a raucous after-after-party in the wee hours. Naturally, there are plenty of party-appropriate pieces, from a sensual wrap-around sequin mini-dress in jet black, to a pink pleated figure-hugging frock, and a powder blue crepe dress embellished with red hand-embroidered crystals.
A standout piece, which feels refreshingly new for the brand, is a silk rendition of the classic MA-1 bomber jacket that features a cinched waist, dropped shoulders, and voluminous sleeves. This development of everyday outerwear feels like an area that Zhang could push further. “Overall, I wanted everything to be luxurious, but with key, down-to-earth items for daytime, as well,” he said.
