“Women are my muses, I try to perceive the evolution of what they like,” Alberta Ferretti said at a resort appointment. That’s not an easy task, today’s fluctuating social and cultural conditions are constantly shifting the perspective. But Ferretti is an undeterred optimist, and also a pragmatist, and she embraces a broad spectrum of demographics and attitudes. The women she has in mind are “sophisticated but easy, romantic but strong.”
Ferretti has tried for quite some time to rewrite, or at least update, her codes, focusing with conviction on daywear staples and keeping just a modicum of her famous ethereal dresses in the conversation. Here she seemed to adjust the focus in favor of a more balanced offer. She infused the collection with a breezier spirit, reintroducing a wider option of her molto femminili dresses, while adding a series of utilitarian jumpsuits in luxurious fabrics as a cool alternative to pantsuits, and playing with pajama tailoring in fluid, elongated proportions.
The airy volumes of trench coats, round-shaped parkas, and off-the-shoulder blousons looked fresh, but what stood out were the new renditions of Ferretti’s signature flowy dresses. Shot against the sunburned rocky beaches of Ibiza, in a vibrant palette of earth tones, and printed with Mandala-inspired motifs or watercolor florals, they had a timeless appeal that could also be attractive to the young audience the designer is after.