You won’t hear the word “resort” come out of Marcus Wainwright’s mouth. Rag & Bone, as he is keen to remind you, is woven into its customers’ day-to-day realities, a point made by this season’s behind-the-scenes lookbook. Wainwright himself shot the images, at least two of which document a model taking a selfie in a mirror. In one photo she sports a double-breasted jacket as a dress over sheer stockings and motorcycle boots; in the other, the versatile footwear accessorizes faded black jeans, a nubby wool coat, and a black leather shacket cut to showcase a flash of hip bone.
Tailoring is the foundation of the collection, as is the custom here. The shapes for pre-spring have a 1970s-by-way-of-the-’90s flare, with lean jackets and front-seamed high-rise pants. The lavender two-piecer looks like a low-key version of the circa 1995 Gucci suit made famous by Gwenyth Paltrow. Even more low-key, brass-button blazers have been styled with jeans cut either narrow or baggy.
Because holiday parties are part of his customers’ day-to-day realities at this time of year, there are shoulder-baring, form-fitting dresses in faux leather or velvet (worn over a fine gauge knit for the chill of the office) and a devoré slip dress paired with split-hem leggings, another ’90s callback. Team Rag & Bone is still behind the mini-length in a major way, showing wrap-style mini skirts and a thigh-grazing belted suede dress.
The men’s collection is notably suit-less, but the casual, item-y lineup isn’t short on jackets. They run the gamut from leather aviators and motorcycle jackets to quilted plaids, go-anywhere pieces for a post-pandemic moment in which dress code distinctions are less relevant than ever. There’s also a his-and-hers moment in the form of a leopard spot cardigan that complements the zebra stripe sweater in the women’s line.
