There’s been an endless amount of reporting on style subcultures dominating the online fashion discourse. Many of these, like “Cottagecore,” “Barbiecore,” “Clowncore,” “Gorpcore,” are rooted in a type of cosplay. Dressing up in costume decontextualizes the sartorial codes, and what this does does is remove a level of authenticity from these looks. This is why many of the folks leaning into these trends prefer to buy “the real thing” over the fashion reimagining. And this is what makes Daiki Suzuki and his Engineered Garments a worthwhile proposal: It’s fashion-able outdoor apparel, yes, but you could actually wear it to the outdoors.
The source materials in question are the outdoor life magazines Suzuki has been collecting and looking at since childhood, particularly Outdoor Life, but also sister titles like Field & Stream and Sports Afield. Suzuki spent his childhood out in nature, so this fall finds him ruminating on this feeling and revisiting his magazine collection, which were the original impetus behind Engineered Garments.
In come a range of silhouettes, from simple relaxed blazers and hooded pullovers to multi-pocket vests and backpack-strapped parkas, in faux suedes, plaid suitings, thick wools, heavy nylon ripstops, and canvas. The more utilitarian styles in this lineup speak well to Suzuki’s inspiration, but it’s the addition of relaxed and approachable tailoring that round up the collection. Most compelling in the lineup were less expected riffs on the utility angle, like multi-pocket cargos cut in thick corduroy, or ankle-length shirt dresses in heavy nylon. This liminal between true-to-form outdoorswear and everyday-wardrobing is where Engineered Garments is at its most believable.
If the last seasons have seen Suzuki lean heavily into a broad array of prints, fall saw him exercise restraint, cutting down the volume to a handful of checks and plaids, a wooden texture, and two floral and leafy graphics. What this absence does is allow the collection to be grounded by texture and fabrication, and let the distinct layering that has become signature to his label take the spotlight once again.
That Suzuki combined his outdoor-inspired apparel with ties, beanies, varsity jackets, and a couple of tote bags speaks to his awareness of who his customer is. The Engineered Garments person is likely not going fishing in these multi-pocket vests or fisherman pants, but is partaking in the high-impact outdoor sport that is commuting to work, and they’ll look good doing it too.
