Another “no theme” collection from Comme des Garçons Shirt, leaving critics to ponder exactly what Rei Kawakubo and her team are thinking. Right off the bat, spring 2022 seems less about thinking and more about doing. Kawakubo has collaborated with the artist Christian Marclay on graphics; Marclay is the hybrid artist-DJ-sound-wizard whose work synthesizes the raging emotion of a concert into a neat, digestible graphic work of art. His designs are splattered across double-sleeve shirts and trousers jauntily cuffed on just one leg in a tense combination of pink and black.
The raging energy carries into even the most staid of garments. Simple button-downs—although nothing at CDG Shirt is really ever simple—come in punky red and black stripes, dot prints, and argyle patterns that evoke Saint Marks punks. Banker-bro blue striped shirts are actually a series of shirts collaged together, some trailing like capes, others jauntily mis-buttoned around the body. Even the Asics sneakers are in white leopard print. While other brands are looking toward a placid reemergence, Comme des Garçons Shirt asks that you stomp out of isolation full throttle.