From the start, Nanushka has been a brand where minimalism and “sustainability” have been intertwined. This is really smart positioning. It’s not always easy, however, to weave a narrative around cleaned-lined clothes. And honestly, the customer who falls for a white collared pink terry polo shirt, an eco-nylon pleated skirt that looks like a fairy’s wing, or slip dress in lucky-clover green, probably isn’t looking for one anyway.
Nanushka clothes are easy to read and wear, that’s their strength. And much of their innovation is in responsible textile innovation. It might be splitting hairs, but it seems a misnomer to describe this resort collection as being inspired by Arte Povera (Poor Art). Poor in this case refers to the humble, quotidian materials the members of the group used so innovatively. It’s easy to see how Sandor, who has long made use of non-precious things like rope, pottery, and wood in her work, would feel an affinity with that aspect of the movement. But many of the Arte Povera artists were anti-consumerists who rebelled against established systems like galleries (the fashion equivalent of boutiques), so there’s a disconnect.
In any case, Sandor’s starting inspiration was more specific. The designer’s discovery of the Arte Povera artist Luciano Fabro’s bed linen series motivated her to look for new materials and ways to use crisp cotton. Sandor explains that the sheets Fabro used were made from humble cotton percale, a material she hasn’t been able to source, but which appeals to her because of its “rawness” and durability, the latter of which is a key element of sustainable thinking. Look for more of the embroidered cotton pieces, for men and women, in Nanushka’s spring collection. It would be nice to see more items from the brand’s new beachwear line then, too. A neat unisex tank with stitches that almost resembled caning provided a peek at the offering.
On the heels of the Halston docuseries, a pair of pants made of Ultrasuede from the same company the late American designer used stood out, especially as its texture provided a nice contrast to the many vegan leather pieces in the collection. (One of the best was an orange mini slip with an asymmetric flange.) Also soft to the touch was a printed velvet. The “hazy floral” botanical print was created by Janet Lee, who participated in the Nanushka Design for Life Mentorship Program, and will receive 20% of sales of the look. Now that’s a story to crow about.
