We’re only two days into fashion month—officially, at least—but a reverence for nature is already New York’s prevailing theme. Monse’s Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim wanted to celebrate the ways the great outdoors got us through the pandemic, and resort 2022 was their most functional and sportif collection yet. Crispy nylon cargos ballooned to the ankle, topcoats were trimmed with neon climbing ropes, and every look—including Indira Scott’s lacy finale dress—was styled with rubber-soled combat boots. They became an even more crucial accessory in light of today’s weather and setting: Pier 62’s undulating skatepark, slicked with a nonstop drizzle.
Before the show, Garcia and Kim spoke of escape in both literal and figurative terms: They’ve spent weekends in the Adirondacks, upstate New York, and Lake Tahoe, but the mushroom prints on a trio of scarf dresses suggested a different kind of trip. Zoom in and you’ll notice the silks feature other oddities: alarm clocks, chunky TVs, old-timey radios, and a multitude of plants—the various obsessions and burdens of Zoom-fatigued homebodies.
Garcia and Kim have leaned into themes in the past, and today’s invitation came with the possibility of a skate-inspired collection. In fact, the atmosphere’s influence on the garments was loose, coming through mainly in their function and ease. There were no Vans or beanies here, but rainbow-hued crochet skirts and trench coats had the subtlest of stoner vibes. A more high-minded brand might have felt conspicuous in the grimy setting, but this was an honest, unpretentious return to the runway for Monse, with options for those of us looking for interesting hoodies and sensual evening dresses alike.
