Cyclical skin-shedding is what fashion brands and some animal species seem to have in common. Ferragamo is the latest example of what has become an almost routine phenomenon, which the pandemic has only accelerated. After the departure of creative director Paul Andrew in April, a new CEO has recently been appointed: Burberry’s Marco Gobbetti, previously of Celine and Givenchy, will join the company at the end of the year. Resort is a transitional collection, designed by the internal team along the lines put in place by the previous creative direction.
The lookbook’s images were shot at the Museo Marino Marini in Florence, a space which has undergone multiple changes, as it was first a church, then a tobacco factory, then a lottery, before being repurposed into its present incarnation. The choice of the location is a nod to the label’s life of reinvention. Celebrating the innovative spirit of the founder Salvatore while updating artisanal craftsmanship with technology and embracing sustainable values has been the trajectory so far. However, a relevant place in today’s (and tomorrow’s) fashion landscape can only be secured through strong creative choices, which can give the label’s legacy a distinctive, unique point of difference.
The design team riffed on the established repertoire of sporty highlights playing against elegant urban minimalism. Upcycling was treated inventively, providing pieces with some visual punch. A sleeveless dress with a pleated skirt was made from archival printed foulards in silk twill, overdyed in vibrant hot pink and lipstick red hues, while a shift dress was patch-worked from block-colored scraps of chrome-free leather. They looked appealing, as did a kaleidoscope-marbled and fringed fil coupé slipdress with an artsy feel.
The men’s offer was concentrated on updated slim tailoring, alternating with functional everyday pieces in chrome-free leather and soft suede. Biker jackets, anoraks, and blousons were proposed in sleek iterations, while workwear-inflected denim was given a polished twist. The design team emphasized the “Italian lifestyle, generosity, and sensuality,” as Ferragamo’s points of strength going forward. “It should be Florentine, but not too much.” That sounds like a rather sensible indication for the label’s future.
